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I’m lazy about uploading.] Three boys – one about eight and the other two, twins, about four – slide in their socks around the limestone courtyard of the Umayyad Mosque.
They throw water bottles and forget to catch them, and the bottles bump noisily out into the empty centre of this vast sunny rectangle of quietly mumbling pilgrims.
On arrival, these boys – there are no girls in their vague gang – looked to become an irritating, potentially terrifying gauntlet that would have to be run several times daily.
But, with a little coaxing and stilted chatting (my forte), and a few short kick-abouts (a situation in which, unfortunately, I must accept the role of friendly clown, rather than respected grown-up), they have become friends.
I am, of course, implicitly comparing these spaces with church architecture: verticals leading the eyes upwards to depictions of Christ and the rest; open, airy spaces that are divided, hierarchicalized on the human level, but equal and free in the above.
The bikinied girls are American, severely embarrassed, and quickly, politely, bolt for freedom.The girls in bikinis are – invariably – surrounded by men staring at their breasts.Sometimes the men chat at them, sometimes they find some activity to occupy them nearby – paddling, throwing themselves into the waves with oppressive bravado – whilst staring at the beasts.Soaked in sweat and factor 40, and sprinkled with coarse sand, I am trying to finish another argument between the positivist and the Jesuit.
Representing two brands of universalism – 19th century revolutionary rationalism, cosmopolitan Christian idealism – they argue out of different worlds of definitions, argue about definitions so that they end of swapping sides, and get nowhere.I’m often confused by the architecture of the grander mosques.There are these huge spaces – towering pillars holding high ceilings spanning broad floors – and then stuff gets rather plonked in the middle, intentionally interrupting the longest perspectives.The three with us are the oldest, and attend the remedial summer programme of a school in which one of the volunteers teaches.